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Insect Hotel

Attracting pollinators is key to maintaining biodiversity in our very own backyards. And more pollinators makes our gardens even more beautiful! Adding an insect hotel also adds to the aesthetics of a garden. It's a win-win!

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Owl Pellet Dissection

Many kinds of birds produce pellets: birds of prey, crows and even sparrows. Pellets consist of the indigestible parts of a bird’s food, which are regurgitated - pellets are not poop! Owl pellets are a great indicator of the types of animals that are present in a local ecosystem.

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Wildlife Photography

The only way to shoot wildlife is through the lens of a camera. Blending technology and an understanding of animal behavior is key for getting your best shot. Documenting the natural environment through a lens makes precious memories that last a lifetime.

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Insect Hotel

Make your bugs happy

Where you place your insect hotel is very important. Your pollinator palace is surely gorgeous, but as we all know, real estate is important. Let's talk location. If your insect hotel is strictly for bees, full sun is important. The home should face southeast or south and be at least a meter off the ground (about 3.5 feet). Bees are endothermic (aka "cold-blooded") and need the sun's heat to get warmed up in the morning - southern exposure is very important. Make sure there is no vegetation in front of your insect hotel. This will result in blocked entrances to the tubes/tunnels. A bee house hidden in the shadows behind vegetation is unlikely to be used. Don't worry about the hotel being so close to your garden's flowers. Bees fly! Keep them warm and happy and they will make that quick commute to your garden's yummy offerings. Most insects are endothermic, so being in a sunny spot is important. with butterflies, you not only want their hotel to be somewhere warm, but also near plants and flowers that they love. Butterflies are very flitty and active. Keep them in your garden by placing their hotel near host plants in your garden. It's the perfect butterfly bed and breakfast! Whether for bees, butterflies, or other pollinator insects, your insect hotel must not swing or sway in the wind. Do not hang it from a branch. Affix it to a sturdy post, your shed, or other structure. Make sure it's easily removed for maintenance (see the hotel care tab) and for relocation in the event there's no takers to its current spot.

Pollinator diversity

Even though bees are often the focus when it comes to pollination, there are many other species of insects that are important pollinators. Other animal groups including rodents, lemurs, and marsupials contribute to pollination but attract relatively low attention as compared to other pollinators such as bees and butterflies. So yes, the most diverse and abundant pollinators are insects, but vertebrates can also be effective pollinators. Birds are the most diverse with more than 1000 species recorded as pollinators. Bats are also documented as important pollinators of crops and wild plants. And did you know that nectar drinking lizards were recently documented?! Whoa! Diverse pollinators provide vital pollination services to both wild plants and cultivated crops. However, the existing gaps in pollination by the less studied pollinator groups may lead to underestimation of their overall role in the ecosystem. New Jersey is home to approximately 350 species of native pollinating bees. Many have very specific nectar and habitat requirements and may only spend a week or two as an adult visiting flowers while the entire rest of the year is spent as a larvae.

Where bees live

Many bees have very specific nectar and habitat requirements and may only spend a week or two as an adult visiting flowers while the entire rest of the year is spent as a larvae. Bumble Bees are colonial and have a nest or hive. Most bumble bees nest in hives in underground holes made by larger animals. Other bumblebees may have more creative homes. Some nest above ground in abandoned bird nests, grass tussocks or cavities such as hollow logs or spaces beneath rocks. In gardens, they may also use compost piles or unoccupied birdhouses. Other bee species are solitary or may be semi-colonial and choose to share suitable habitat space with others of the same species. Nesting needs can be highly specialized with many bees digging soil burrows and others depending on hollow grass and plant stems. Some species are called leaf-cutters and line their burrows with pieces cut out of leaves. The carpenter bee lives up to its name and drills holes into dry wood to build its home.

Maintenance and Upkeep

Your insect hotel must be tended to. Too often, this is not the case. Many an insect hotel has been carefully crafted or lovingly purchased and then forgotten about once placed in the garden. Let's make sure this doesn't happen with your pollinator palace. Insect hotels should be inspected at the end of summer to remove and clean dead cells (the tubes/tunnels). Any dead bees (or other beneficial insects) and dead larvae could attract mold and mites. Mites can multiply and then invade the other viable cells. Replace any tubes that can't be salvaged with the same or similar material (e.g., bamboo) as discussed in the materials section. We've seen some recommendations of bringing insect hotels with occupants inside for the winter - not inside your home! But inside a garden shed or other outdoor structure. The idea behind this practice is to protect the overwintering inhabitants from wind and rain. This is not necessary as these little guys are adapted to survive over the winter as they prepare for the upcoming year. However, if your insect hotel is placed somewhere where it is not adequately protected from rain and it can get sodden, then yes, move it inside. Protecting the larvae from "winter wet" is important. Persistent wind-blown rain can dissolve the mud walls of the cells, and cause the interior materials such as wooden blocks and cardboard bee tubes to rot. This will leave the young bee pupae susceptible to fungus diseases. They often succumb to these diseases. If you do bring your insect hotel inside, remember that the objective is to keep it DRY, not warm. The pupae are programmed to remain dormant in the winter. It is the warm temperatures of spring and summer that cue them to continue their road to adulthood.

Replacement

Whether in part or in whole, there will come a time that your insect hotel will need replacement. Remember, the material you used to build your hotel are untreated. They will degrade naturally after two or more years. If you are keeping a regular maintenance schedule, you are replacing components such as the nesting blocks or tubes. This is beneficial because it prevents mold, mites, and parasites. Even with this maintenance, though, there will come a time that the frame proper will be degraded enough to be ditched. No worries, though! You have two choices: 1) Carefully replace the frame while taking care not to disturb any residents. This is better conducted during late spring or summer after most of the adults have emerged. 2) Ensuring that there are no viable pupae or larvae, discard of your insect hotel in a leaf pile or a corner of your garden. As it biodegrades, it will still serve as a home or place of refuge for other insects.

Materials

Saving money and being sustainable go hand in hand when you are building your own insect hotel. * Use recycled or waste wood and logs. If you do buy wood from a hardware store, it must be untreated. * Composite materials such as hardboard, chipboard or particleboard are not suitable because they will disintegrate in the rain. * And of course, do not use cedar - it smells lovely to humans, but repels insects. There's no standard shape or size for your backyard insect abode. Just keep in mind that large or oversized structures invite parasites and predators and compromise the safety of your intended inhabitants. For our workshops, our "standard" large model is 10.25" X 7"; our "mini" is 5" x 3.5". The roof may be peaked or slanted to help draw water away. If your roof is flat, make sure the joints of the top part of your frame are covered. Or, you can cover the flat roof with a waterproof material (e.g. corrugated steel).

Store bought

Not feeling handy? Just want to save time? There are pre-made insect hotels on the market - - LOTS of them! (It can be overwhelming, we know.) If you choose to go this route, there are several factors to consider before you buy. * Are the materials sustainable? (Not a deal breaker, but you want to do this right!) * Is it painted or varnished? (This is a no-no.) * Avoid glass or plastic tubes - they cause condensation and fungus molds. * Check the size (diameters) of the tubes. Are they too large or too small for native bees in your region? * Is the back wall of the tubes solid? Or are the tubes flat against the back of the hotel? If neither is the case, your tubes are just open-ended wind tunnels that will not be inhabited. * Is the interior of the tubes smooth and splinter-free? * How easy is it to clean and perform annual maintenance? * What type of pollinator does the unit attract? Butterflies? Bees? Lacewings? Who do you want to attract to your backyard or garden? Whatever you decide - homemade or purchased - you are on the way to having some very happy pollinators!

Owl Pellets

Elusive, mysterious, and loved, owls have a commanding presence that is inexplicable. From early Native American folklore to Aesop's fables to fables and superstitions of the Middle Ages, owls have been represented as wise and prophetic, bringers of good luck, and harbingers of death. They certainly have a hold over us, don't they? So who are these marvelous creatures really? Owls are raptors (birds of prey) which means they use their sharp talons and curved bills to hunt, kill, and eat other animals - even other owls! Many people are familiar with raptors such as hawks and eagles. Owls look quite different from these raptors; their unique traits makes this bird quite identifiable. Most owls have huge heads and stocky bodies. Most species are active at night (they are literally night owls), and of course, they have large, fixed eyes at the front of their head. Because their eyes are fixed, owls can turn their heads up to 270 degrees in either direction. Owls live on every continent except Antarctica. There are about 250 species of owls in the world.

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Owls don’t have teeth to chew their prey. They use their talons and sharp beaks to tear food apart before swallowing large portions of it whole. Owls digest their food slowly, separating the soft material (meat) from the hard material (bones). Keeping the important nutrients it needs, an owl expels the undigested remains of its food from the beak in the form of a pellet. Owls are great predators that feed on mice, voles, small birds, and other prey which they swallow whole. In doing so, their digestive system has to deal with bones, fur, and feathers. Owls have a gizzard - an organ that uses digestive fluid and bits of sand and gravel to grind and dissolve digestible material. (Too cool!) The owl’s gizzard performs pretty cool sorting feat. The soft tissues of its swallowed prey pass through its gastrointestinal tract to be digested. The indigestible sharp and hazardous parts like bones, teeth, and fur are formed into an oval mass. This mass makes the trip back up the digestive system and is regurgitated as a pellet several hours later, often while the owl is at roost. Owls aren't the only birds that cast pellets. Hawks, falcons, eagles, herons, cormorants, grebes, kingfishers, swallows, and many shore birds also cough up pellets. If you've ever seen a video of an owl eating, you've surely witnessed in amazement as the owl downs very large prey in one piece. Owls don’t tear up smaller prey as a hawk might. This is why intact bones of an owl’s pellets are wonderful for providing us with insight as to what its eaten. Even better, the contents of an owl pellet give us an unofficial census of the birds and small mammals in the local ecosystem.

We appreciate owls for how unique they are, their beauty, and their resilience. Let's bump tht appreciation up a notch with some fun facts! * Awesome rodent control...Barn Owls eat up to 1,000 mice each year. * Whoooo said that? Owl vocalizations are very diverse. Owls don't just hoot! Barn Owls make hissing sounds (and a loud screeching sound, funnily enough); the Eastern Screech-Owl whinnies like a horse; the Barred Owl sounds as if it's asking "Who cooks for you?"; and the Burrowing Owl makes "coo-coo" calls as if it's yoo-hooing for a friend fown the street. * The tiniest owl in the world is the Elf Owl, which is 5 - 6 inches tall and weighs about 1 ½ ounces. * Owls hunt other owls. Great Horned Owls are the top predator of Barred Owls. * A group of owls is called a parliament. Fancy! This originates from C.S. Lewis’ description of a meeting of owls in The Chronicles of Narnia. * Whispering wings - Owls fly in silence. The structure of their feathers serves as a silencer, streamlining air flow and absorb the sound produced by their wings flapping.

Unfortunately, many owl species are a conservational concern. Habitat encroachment and loss, climate change, vehicle collisions, pesticides, and the introduction of invasive predators continue to impact owl populations. The decline of so many owl species is concerning; there are too many owl species on the IUCN red list. And, many other "common" owl species that will soon be on their way if we don't act to be more conscientious of how our actions influence their abllity to thrive.

Wildlife Photography

If you've purchased a new cell phone lately, you know that a highlighted feature is the camera. Sophisticated technology has made the hobby of photography more accessible and sometimes, more complicated. The world has become smaller. We are able to commmunicate with each other in milliseconds. The most common means of doing so is with a picture or video. Makes sense, doesn't it? A picture is worth a thousand words after all. Knowing your equipment inside and out is a major plus for taking great pictures. Become one with the user manual of your camera or phone. Get involved with an online community of photography hobbyists for insight and support. Don't have the patience for any of that? That's okay! Go outside and snap away! Whether you're a fan of the "spray and pray", or you have the patience of a saint and are willing to learn by taking your time in the actual setting, you will be on your way to taking great pictures regardless of your equipment. Don't be fooled by thinking the most expensive camera is the way to go. Check out winning photos from high profile competitions. It's not always the camera - the skill of the person behind the camera is the most valuable piece of the photography puzzle.

In the field

Be ethical. Be respectful. Be prepared. The bottom line in wildlife photography is to understand that your subjects are precious components of our natural world. They have a right to living their lives without being harassed or harmed. Sometimes, the animal you are photographing may be endangered or of conservational concern. Getting the shot does not take priority over the safety and security of the animal. This also applies to the environment. Staying on established paths and not destroying or modifying local plants or other natural structures is recommended. If you destroy habitat, how will you find local wildlife? Be aware of other animals or plants that can cause you harm while you are focused on your subject. Always be aware of your environment and be safe. When outside, you are in a dynamic setting, things will change while you're concentrating on your shot. Take photos from a safe place and distance. If your only way of getting a closeup is actually getting close up, you put yourself and the animal at risk. Investing in the proper equipment for closer distance shots is the best way to go. Be quiet and listen. Most wildlife can hear from great distances and something as simple as stepping on a branch can send animals running! That said, DO make noise if you believe a dangerous situation is forthcoming and just to make the animal know you are in the area. (Bears and snakes, for example that are not startled will be less inclined to be on the defensive.) Safety first! NEVER bait or feed an animal. In most areas, it is illegal to feed animals, even ones as innocuous as the swan in your local park pond or deer in the neighborhood. Habituating animals to approach people creates high risk for injury. Also, even though some animals eat people food, it puts their health at risk. Do not search for babies. Inasmuch as we love the little ones, their protective parents love them more and will defend them fiercely. Also, you may unintentionally create a scent trail for predators that will lead them straight to their next (defenseless) meal. Refer back to the tip of investing in the proper equipment so you may safely take closeup pictures from a distance. No matter how clearly signs are posted and how many times photographers or tourists are told this, humans still think it's okay to approach wild animals. Don't do it! Trust us, the animal doesn't "know you" just because you frequent that location often and see that animal often. He does not consider you a friend. Making "offerings" of nonxistent food while making chirping or squeaking noises does no good. A wildlife attack can happen without any warning. Even the gentlest looking deer can misinterpret your "good" intentions and react violently. Give wildlife space and distance and let them do their wildlife things! We know, we know...you are in shape and are an avid hiker with great physical stamina. Please don't assume that you can outrun or outmanuever a wild animal. That 1500 pound bison you are looking at can reach speeds up to 65km/hr in no time flat. Large crocodiles can run between 15 to 22 mph (24-35 km/h). Dress comfortably for your environment so you can sit for long periods of time. Take all trash with you. Follow the principles of LNT - Leave No Trace. There should be no evidence that humans were in the area. Garbage and microtrash destroy the very environment you need available to increase the chances of an animal presence for getting on camera.

Daring to be Wrong

Being in the digital age means you can take pictures with wanton abandon. There's no need to be concerned about wasting film; you can make as many "mistakes" as you want. The number of do-overs is endless! We stand by the idea of daring to be wrong. In wildlife photography, you can't wait around for the perfect shot. That kestrel is not going to find its light so you can get a picture of its good side; that green heron will scare off pretty easily, so snap that shutter quickly. Practicing doesn't have to be boring or tedious. Here are some of our favorite creative exercises as offered by our friends at B&H. * Two Dozen: Pick a location. Stand in one spot and make 24 unique photographs while standing in the same place. You may not move your feet. * Shoot a “Roll of Film”: Go somewhere you have wanted to go to take pics but have been procrastinating about visiting. Shoot a “Roll of 24 or 36 exposures.” After 24 or 36 shots, you are out of “film.” This forces you to think more critically when taking pics. * Change Up: Try a different genre of photography. Go from wildlife photography to cityscapes; or from portraits of people to sports photography. This will help you become more familiar with applying the proper settings to the environmental situation before you. * Nine Elements: Photograph these nine elements of a scene while in one location...light, shadow, line, shape, form, texture, color, size, depth. Have fun and be consistent in your efforts!

Interactive Practice

Knowing your specific equipment is key. Understanding the essential elements of aperture, shutter speed, ISO, etc. is foundational. It doesn't matter what type of camera you are using. Luckily, in addition to your hands-on practice with your own device, there are great online options to refine and strengthen your knowledge. We've included some of our favorite online simulators in ranked order. New online resources are created with regularity. Explore and see what you can discover!

Our favorite simulations, ranked:

For the shot

Plan your site visit with the end result in mind. The golden hours (the hour after dawn and the hour before dusk) give you optimum timing and light. Optimum timing because this is the height of animal activity in general (most animals feed in the early morning or late in the evening). Optimum light because well, it's golden. This doesn't mean you have to be an early riser or miss the family dinner. As long as you know you may need more patience outside of the golden hour, it will pay off. Get photos from the subject’s eye level perspective when possible. Perspective is key in photography. Photos from this pov are more compelling and exciting and attract more attention to your work. Include the environment and surrounding in your pictures. Portrait pictures of the animals themselves are great, but showing wildlife in the actual wild brings more attention to the environment itself and brings focus to the bigger picture of our natural world. (We promise, those puns were only slightly intentional.) If you are able to afford it, have more than one lens (or even one camera) available to use. Using different lenses helps you take photos of different focal lengths, making each picture different from the other. (If you haven't already, check out the practice tab for some cool creative exercises that can enhance your skills in this area.) There are affordable options via secondhand camera stores, online marketplaces, or even camera rental options. For more interesting pictures, take pictures of animals interacting with each other and the environment. For great action photos, you must be patient and understand animal behaviors. Reading up on animal behavior or hiring a guide is a nice way to anticipate a particular animal's presence in a given environment and its movement. This increases your chances of getting that shot. Planning a site visit around animal migration patterns increases your chances at prime photo opportunities. Include blur to show dynamic motion in your photos. As your skills increase, you will play around with shots that bring more life to your images. Creating a good motion blur requires some experimentation with your shutter speed. Dare to be wrong and practice, practice, practice. Don't like the shot? Erase it and take another. Focus on the eyes of your subject for a picture that draws in the viewer. Many cameras have an option for tracking the eye. That doesn't mean you're guaranteed the perfect shot. Sharpness of the image is vital. The camera's technology may have found the eye, but it is up to you to snap the picture at the right time. Remember, the animal is moving - fast or slow - it is a moving target. Try focusing on the face of the animal or the head. If you can get these in focus, the eye will generally be in focus. Be aware of and find the right background. A good background - and a great natural frame - can make all the difference in your shot. The main subject can be lost if the area behind your focal point is bright and distracting. The best background should not detract from the subject. Backgrounds are often neglected in wildlife photography. So pay attention to avoid this common mistake.